Choose by exact watch reference, not brand reputation: compare recent completed sales for the same configuration, buy at a price that leaves room for selling costs, and verify condition, authenticity, and service history. No luxury watch has a guaranteed resale value, so treat potential retention as one factor—not a promised investment return.
What actually affects a watch’s resale value?
A brand name alone cannot tell you what a particular watch will sell for. Demand varies by reference, material, size, dial, bracelet, condition, and the price you pay. A popular collection can include examples with very different resale prospects.
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- Reference and configuration: Compare the exact reference and, where relevant, its material, dial, size, and bracelet. Broad brand averages can conceal substantial differences.
- Purchase price: Strong demand does not necessarily make a purchase financially sound if you pay a premium that exceeds what a future buyer is likely to pay.
- Condition and originality: Wear, polishing, replacement parts, and changes from the original configuration can affect buyer confidence and price.
- Authenticity and records: Consistent reference and serial information, documentation, and a credible service history help a buyer assess the watch.
- Liquidity: A watch with interested buyers may still take time to sell. The amount you receive depends on the route, fees, and costs involved.
Rarity or discontinuation can influence interest, but short production alone does not establish lasting demand.
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What do historical market figures tell you—and what don’t they?
Chrono24’s October 2024 analysis reported that its ChronoPulse Watch Index rose 22.85% over the five years to October 2024, while also describing the market as having consolidated since its spring 2022 peak. Those are index results for a specific period, not a forecast or the return an individual owner can expect after buying and selling. Chrono24’s 2024 market analysis
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Chrono24 also reported these average secondary-market price changes for October 2019 to October 2024:
| Brand | Average price change | Period and source |
|---|---|---|
| Audemars Piguet | 64.85% | October 2019–October 2024; Chrono24, 2024 |
| Vacheron Constantin | 52.27% | October 2019–October 2024; Chrono24, 2024 |
| Cartier | 39.06% | October 2019–October 2024; Chrono24, 2024 |
| Patek Philippe | 33.59% | October 2019–October 2024; Chrono24, 2024 |
| Omega | 27.81% | October 2019–October 2024; Chrono24, 2024 |
| Rolex | 27.59% | October 2019–October 2024; Chrono24, 2024 |
| Tudor | −9.54% | October 2019–October 2024; Chrono24, 2024 |
These brand-level averages are historical marketplace analysis, not completed-sale evidence for every reference or a measure of an individual owner’s net proceeds. The contrast—including Tudor’s decline—also cautions against assuming that luxury watches rise as a group. Chrono24’s Head of Brand Engagement Balazs Ferenczi characterized the post-pandemic market as having “returned to normalcy”; that is his interpretation in the report, not a guarantee or universal consensus.
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A 2023 Boston Consulting Group and WatchBox report found that 66% of 1,022 surveyed US luxury-watch buyers said anticipated retained value or value growth influenced their buying decision. The survey was conducted in October 2022; it records buyer attitudes, not proof that watches retain or gain value. Its chart of twelve selected models from Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, and Rolex collections indexed prices to January 2018 retail levels and should not be treated as representative of every model or buyer. BCG and WatchBox’s 2023 report
Asking prices are not the same as completed-sale prices, and neither necessarily equals what you will receive after costs. The May 2026 lug²lug guide says its secondary-market figures use live eBay listings and public enthusiast-forum asking prices matched to references; it notes that new catalog entries may use static estimates pending cache updates. Its retention figures are therefore not verified sale prices, and the guide cautions that a high figure does not guarantee a buyer at that price next week. lug²lug’s May 2026 guide
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- 【Self Winding Men Skeleton Watch】 elegant Big face watch for man with day date.The ingenious tourbillon skeleton design enhances the grade of the watch. The month, week, and day display windows provide more detailed time.
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How to compare watches before buying
- Choose a watch you want to own. Decide on the style and complication first, then narrow your search to an exact reference and configuration. Do not buy solely because a model is said to be collectible.
- Set a realistic purchase price. Look for recent completed sales of the same reference and comparable condition. Keep asking prices separate from sale evidence, and compare new and pre-owned options on an like-for-like basis. If the evidence is thin, do not treat a listing as proof of what the watch is worth.
- Inspect the individual watch. Check condition and originality, including polishing or replacement parts where relevant, reference and serial consistency, box and papers, and documented service. If the seller’s guarantee does not resolve your concerns, arrange an independent inspection by a qualified watch professional.
- Evaluate the seller and purchase protections. Confirm the seller’s reputation, authentication process, return rights, warranty, and dispute process for the specific watch and listing. For an auction, inspect the watch where possible, request a condition report, and set a maximum bid that includes the buyer’s premium and other costs.
- Estimate the exit before you buy. Consider who is likely to want that reference, how long a sale might take, and whether you would sell privately, through a dealer, a marketplace, or at auction. Account for fees, shipping and insurance, and possible future service expense.
Marie Claire UK’s 2026 buying guide describes Watchfinder and Chrono24 as specialist online channels, eBay’s watch authentication service, and auctions as another route. These are examples, not endorsements or confirmation of current terms. Check the process and protections that apply to the actual seller, listing, and location. The guide also recommends choosing a reputable auctioneer and requesting a condition report. Marie Claire UK’s 2026 guide
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Should you buy new or pre-owned?
Neither route guarantees better value retention. Compare the actual new price with pre-owned prices for the same reference and configuration, then weigh the pre-owned watch’s condition, originality, documentation, service record, and seller protections. A lower asking price is not automatically a better purchase if the watch needs service or its history is unclear; a new watch is not automatically a better resale proposition if it costs more than buyers later pay for comparable examples.
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- From Bulova's Men's Marine Star Collection, live and play in maritime watches that feature bold accents, iconic patterns and innovative materials inspired by the sea.
- 3 Hand, Automatic, Sub Second Hand, Hack Feature
- Two-Tone Stainless Steel
- Mineral Crystal
- 200M Water Resistant and 3 Year Limited Warranty
For a pre-owned purchase, ask for clear answers about condition, authenticity, service, and return terms before paying. For an auction purchase, include the buyer’s premium and other charges in your maximum price rather than comparing the hammer price alone.
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The available figures do not establish a universal best watch for future value retention or a reliable net investment return after purchase, service, and resale costs. Historical index movements and selected model charts cannot predict what an unspecified watch will bring when you sell it. Marie Claire UK quotes Christie’s senior watch specialist Tom Heap describing watch buying as “an avenue of pleasure”; that is a useful perspective, not a valuation rule.
Buy only if the price is affordable without relying on appreciation, and if you would still be glad to own the watch should its resale price fall or take time to realize. As Christie’s specialist Heap and Lyon & Turnbull’s head of watches Charles Tearle advise in Marie Claire UK’s coverage, “Buy the seller, as they say.”
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