Hermès reported €611 million in watch sales in 2023, up 23.2% at constant exchange rates, according to Monochrome Watches’ introduction to its interview with Laurent Dordet, CEO of Hermès Horloger. Dordet described the year as 23% growth and credited the maison’s creative approach and watchmaking expertise—not one collection alone. The interview, published on 28 February 2024, explains how Hermès connects product design, Swiss manufacturing and long-term investment; its figures describe 2023, not current performance.
What did Hermès Horloger report for 2023?
In Xavier Markl’s interview for Monochrome Watches, the introduction gives Hermès watch sales of €611 million in 2023 and growth of 23.2% at constant exchange rates. Dordet rounded the watch métier’s growth to 23% when describing the year. These are the figures as presented in that February 2024 interview; they should not be read as a later-year result or as an independently recast audited segment series. The official Hermès strategy page does not provide a more recent watch-segment revenue series.
Dordet attributed the performance to what he called “singular creativity and exceptional watchmaking expertise.” He pointed to both complicated watches, including Arceau Le temps Voyageur, and established designs such as Cape Cod, while also describing the H08 as a success. Those examples convey management’s explanation of the results; the interview does not establish that any one model caused the growth.
How does Dordet explain the brand’s approach to watches?
Dordet frames Hermès’ watch strategy as a long-term effort to preserve the house’s values and origins while refreshing existing collections and creating new models. His description puts people, crafts, creativity and product quality at the center. He summed up the aim this way: “We do have a singular approach to time; our wish is to share emotions with our customers and to bring something they won’t find anywhere else.”
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That philosophy also shapes the relationship between engineering and design. “Here at Hermès, technique is at the service of creation, meaning that no compromise will be made on the design,” Dordet said. In the interview, this is reflected in playful interpretations of time and in métiers d’art work where technical difficulty supports a creative idea. The brand’s official company-wide strategy similarly emphasizes creation and craftsmanship, along with an exclusive distribution network and objects intended to last, be passed on and be repaired. That broader statement is not a specific claim about watch servicing.
Why does the H08 matter to the collection?
Dordet presents the H08 as an important part of Hermès’ strengthened men’s range: a sporty watch designed for versatile wear, rooted in the house’s men’s universe and equipped with manufacture movements. He says Hermès has introduced new expressions and innovative materials to the line each year since its 2021 launch.
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His personal example is an H08 in braided and aluminized glass fibre, with slate-coloured and green details. Dordet praised its comfort, case ergonomics and style. That is his stated preference, not an independent hands-on assessment. The interview supplies a design and collection perspective rather than a full specification, price, availability or buying comparison.
How did Hermès build its Swiss watchmaking operation?
Dordet traces Hermès’ Swiss watchmaking to 1978, when La Montre Hermès was established. He recounts that Jean-Louis Dumas chose Switzerland to bring the company close to watchmaking craftspeople and asked the team to pursue both high quality and distinctive design. The subsequent steps combined investment in suppliers and capabilities with the development of Hermès’ own workshops:
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| Year | Milestone described in the interview |
|---|---|
| 1978 | La Montre Hermès was established in Switzerland. |
| 2006 | Hermès acquired a 25% stake in Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier, associated with movements; a leather workshop also opened at the Brügg site alongside the assembly workshop. |
| 2012 | Hermès acquired dial maker Natéber. |
| 2013 | Hermès acquired case maker Joseph Erard. |
| 2017 | Les Ateliers d’Hermès Horloger were created in Le Noirmont. |
Dordet describes the resulting operation as an integrated watch manufacturer with 100% Swiss production. He also says the division has long been 100% Swiss Made and makes components in-house. These are his descriptions in the interview, not the findings of a separate sourcing or certification audit.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.What does the interview establish—and what does it leave open?
The interview offers a management account of the reasons Hermès watches performed strongly in 2023 and how the company sees its design and manufacturing identity. It does not provide a later watch-sales figure, a model-by-model sales breakdown, or evidence that the reported growth continued after 2023. Nor does it settle product-level questions such as current model prices, availability, specifications or comparative value. Dordet’s broader philosophy is captured in his line, “Time is a friend telling stories and stirring emotions,” and his reminder: “At Hermès we do things seriously without taking us too seriously.”
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Sources: Xavier Markl’s interview with Laurent Dordet, Monochrome Watches, 28 February 2024; Hermès, Strategy.
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