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GeekWire’s 2022 Taste Test: Atomo Beanless Coffee vs. Starbucks and Others

In GeekWire’s informal 2022 blind test, three staffers tried Atomo beanless cold brews and five competitors. Two favored Starbucks Nitro, while one preferred Stumptown with oat milk.
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In GeekWire’s informal 2022 blind taste test, two of three staff tasters preferred Starbucks Unsweetened Black Nitro Cold Brew, while the third chose Stumptown Cold Brew with Oat Milk. The tasters generally noticed a difference in Atomo’s beanless canned coffees, but the small panel’s reactions are personal impressions—not a scientific result or a measure of what most coffee drinkers prefer.

What GeekWire compared

GeekWire reporter Kurt Schlosser organized an afternoon blind tasting of eight canned cold brews sold in 8-ounce cans at the time: three Atomo products and five conventional competitors. The cans were hidden behind a cardboard barrier. The three tasters were managing editor Taylor Soper, summer intern Nate Bek, and health sciences reporter Charlotte Schubert.

Atomo products Other products
Ultra Smooth Cold Brew Starbucks Unsweetened Black Nitro Cold Brew
Classic Black Cold Brew Chameleon Smooth Black Cold Brew
Oat Milk Latte Cold Brew Ground Work Classic Organic Nitro Cold Brew
Stumptown Original Cold Brew
Stumptown Cold Brew with Oat Milk

The lineup and tasting details are from GeekWire’s July 22, 2022 report. It describes the test as “not-that-scientific.”

Which cold brew won the taste test?

There was no single group winner. Schubert liked Starbucks Nitro and said, “It actually lacks a bitter aftertaste.” Bek preferred Stumptown’s cold brew with oat milk, a style that matched his preference for oat milk. Soper and Schubert did not identify one universal favorite in the reported comments. These are the choices of three individuals, not a scored ranking of all eight products.

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What did Atomo coffee taste like to the tasters?

The three staffers generally noticed a difference in Atomo’s beanless offerings, and some reactions were negative. Soper said of Atomo Ultra Smooth, “It’s weird. It doesn’t taste like coffee.” Bek described a product as “kind of syrupy, and not in a good way,” while Schubert called it “kind of cloying.” After the reveal, Soper observed, “You can really tell the difference with the beanless. Maybe with some people that’s the appeal.”

The comments capture those tasters’ impressions; they do not establish how consumers generally respond to beanless coffee. Bek also said he would not change his habits based on the tasting: “I don’t think I would change any of my habits based on what I tasted.”

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How to interpret Atomo’s separate consumer-test claim

GeekWire also reported Atomo’s account of a separate test conducted by National Food Labs: Atomo said panelists preferred its cold brew to conventional competitors by 2 to 1. That is a company-reported result relayed by GeekWire, not a result independently established by GeekWire’s three-person tasting. The article does not provide underlying study details, so the figure should not be treated as a verified, general consumer-preference statistic.

Is Atomo’s current coffee the same product GeekWire tasted?

No. The GeekWire comparison covered ready-to-drink canned cold brews available in 2022. Atomo’s current official store lists a 50:50 drip ground coffee, described by the company as a blend of 50% beanless coffee and 50% Arabica. It is a different format and product from the cans in the taste test. Atomo’s 50:50 Drip product page displayed a price of $15.99 when accessed October 8, 2026, and an Amazon callout marked “Coming soon!” That page does not establish that an Amazon listing is live.

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Four Sigmatic Organic Focus Mushroom Ground Coffee | Dark Roast, Organic Coffee with Lion's Mane & Chaga Mushroom for Mental Clarity & Energy Support | 12oz Bag
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Atomo’s official prebiotic ground coffee page describes a separate product and claims 2 g of prebiotic fiber per serving and up to 50% less acidity than traditional coffee. Those are manufacturer claims, not independently established findings in the sources cited here. Its brewing guide gives preparation directions for that ground coffee, not for the historical canned products.

Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Support on Ko-Fi

What the taste test can—and cannot—tell you

The test offers a useful snapshot of how three GeekWire staffers reacted to a particular 2022 lineup. It suggests that these tasters could distinguish Atomo’s beanless cans from the other drinks and that their preferences varied. It cannot show that beanless coffee tastes the same as conventional coffee, that most people will dislike or prefer it, or that one brand is objectively best. The results also do not compare current formulations, prices per serving, caffeine, or present availability.

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  • Shown as a serving suggestion

Atomo’s company history has changed since the tasting: GeekWire reported in January 2023 that the company announced a strategic realignment and restructuring after raising $40 million in 2022. That historical report does not establish Atomo’s present corporate status. The existence of current product pages establishes what the company’s site lists, not whether the 2022 canned products remain available.

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Amazon Fresh, Nicaragua Whole Bean Coffee, Medium Roast, 12 Oz
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Product prices and availability are accurate as of the date/time indicated and are subject to change. Any price and availability information displayed on Amazon at the time of purchase will apply.

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