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In a 7 May 2019 interview, then-Panerai CEO Jean-Marc Pontroué described the brand’s central challenge as protecting its recognizable identity while making it better known. His plans focused on developing existing watch families, improving retail and service, and building stronger local customer bases—not expanding production or launching new product lines. These were his goals at the time, not a statement of Panerai’s current strategy.
What did Pontroué see as Panerai’s biggest opportunity and challenge?
In his 2019 interview with Monochrome Watches, Pontroué described opportunity and challenge as two sides of the same task: preserve Panerai’s reputation and make its distinctive identity more widely understood. He pointed to the cases, dials and straps as elements that make the watches recognizable.
That approach puts the emphasis on strengthening what customers already associate with the brand, rather than changing its identity to pursue growth. It also explains why he treated product development and customer engagement as connected priorities.
Why did he value the Paneristi community?
Pontroué credited Paneristi—the community of Panerai enthusiasts—with helping the brand become successful quickly. In 2019, he described its reach across markets including the United States, Germany, China and Hong Kong. He said he tried to meet collectors while traveling, at boutique openings and at events such as the community’s P-Day gathering.
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He also emphasized how deeply collectors knew the watches: reference numbers, launch dates, production quantities and prices. As he put it, “I love their opinion because they know the brand even slightly better than me.” For Pontroué, that knowledge made the community a meaningful source of perspective, not simply an audience for new products.
What strategy did he outline for Panerai?
Pontroué’s stated priorities in 2019 centered on improving the business and developing its existing collections. His comments described intended direction at that time, not confirmation of current policy.
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- Build team capabilities: train staff to address the challenges of retail, digital, after-sales service and distribution.
- Develop the existing collections: explore creativity within Panerai’s four established product lines rather than introduce new families.
- Keep production from growing: he said the company did not intend to increase production and planned to reduce limited editions.
- Increase technical and material interest: he wanted more technical content and, in some lines, greater use of precious materials.
In a separate 2022 interview, Pontroué told WatchPro that Panerai had 170 stores at that time. He also said that two thirds of the boutiques opened in the preceding five years had been opened with partners. Those figures are dated claims from that interview, not current store or expansion counts. The conversation also covered pandemic-era changes in customer geography, retail beyond capital cities, supply-chain pressure and Richemont’s support for ecommerce and other capabilities.
What was his five-year forecast?
In 2019, Pontroué said he wanted Panerai to remain among the top 20 operators in the luxury watch world over the following five years. He also described goals of maintaining balanced distribution and developing customers in their local markets rather than relying chiefly on tourist shopping.
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- Stainless Steel case with Black Resin Band
- Black Dial with date window at 3 O'clock
- Luminous markers and hour hands; sweep second hand
- Anti-reverse bezel
- Water-resistant to 200 M (660 feet)
These were ambitions stated at the time. The interview does not verify whether Panerai achieved the ranking or distribution goals, so the top-20 remark should not be read as a confirmed current position. In the 2022 WatchPro interview, Pontroué reflected on forecasting by saying, “One valuable lesson we have learned is that it is almost impossible to predict the future.”
Which Panerai watch did Pontroué choose?
Asked which Panerai he would wear if he could choose only one, Pontroué named the Submersible. He called it a “civilized version” of the original diver’s watch and discussed materials including titanium, BMG, Bronzo and Carbotech.
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That answer records his personal preference in the 2019 interview; it is not an independent recommendation or a guide to current models. The interview does not establish today’s Submersible reference numbers, specifications, prices or availability.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.Who leads Panerai now?
Pontroué is no longer Panerai’s CEO. Richemont announced on 18 March 2025 that Emmanuel Perrin would become CEO effective 1 April 2025, when Pontroué stepped down after leading the maison since 2018. Richemont describes Panerai’s roots as dating to Florence in 1860, notes its historical supply of precision instruments to the Italian Navy and specialist diving corps, and says the Radiomir and Luminor designs reached the international market after Richemont acquired the brand in 1997. The group says Panerai develops and crafts its movements and watches at its Neuchâtel manufacture.
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Pontroué continued to discuss the brand publicly before his departure. For example, an India Today interview listed in 2024 covered partnerships, new watches and Panerai’s plans for India’s luxury market. That coverage establishes the topics he addressed, not whether the plans succeeded.
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