Time+Tide contributor Pietro Pilla’s 13 November 2025 report highlights a striking range of Geneva watch-auction results: Phillips’ Decade One sale totaled CHF 66.8 million, while a stainless-steel Patek Philippe ref. 1518 reportedly sold for CHF 14,190,000. The report also points to historically important Breguet pieces, unusual vintage watches and quieter lots worth a closer look. These are figures and record claims as reported by Time+Tide, not independently verified auction-house results.
What stood out across the Geneva sales
Pilla’s retrospective covers Sotheby’s Breguet anniversary sale and Important Watches sale, Christie’s Rare Watches, Phillips’ Decade One and Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces. It is a curated selection, not a complete list of lots or an apples-to-apples comparison of auction performance. “Record breaker” and “hidden gem” are the report’s editorial framing, not formal categories used by the auction houses.
| Auction and sale | Reported result | Why it stands out in Pilla’s report |
|---|---|---|
| Sotheby’s, A Celebration of Breguet’s 250th Anniversary | Sale total: CHF 12,202,960; Breguet No. 1890: CHF 1,880,000 | A focused 70-lot sale of historical Breguet material, curated with Montres Breguet SA and heritage lead Emmanuel Breguet. |
| Sotheby’s, Important Watches | Mercedes Gleitze’s Rolex Oyster: CHF 1,392,000; Cartier Tank Normale: CHF 88,900 | A pre-production Rolex Oyster prototype alongside an unusual 1930s Cartier configuration. |
| Christie’s, Rare Watches | Sale total: CHF 21,641,435; Patek Philippe ref. 3970 special edition: CHF 1,397,000 | The Patek was the sale’s top result in the report; an elaborate platinum Audemars Piguet also drew attention. |
| Phillips, Decade One (2015–2025) | Sale total: CHF 66.8 million; Patek Philippe ref. 1518: CHF 14,190,000 | The report’s headline sale and a reported auction record for a Patek Philippe wristwatch. |
| Antiquorum, Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces | Examples: Rolex Day-Date Oysterquartz at CHF 100,000; Patek Philippe ref. 1463 at CHF 187,500 | A broad mix of modern and vintage watches that Pilla presents as rewarding for in-person comparison. |
All results in the table are reported by Time+Tide in 2025. The sale totals are not market-wide statistics and do not, by themselves, establish what any watch is worth today.
Sotheby’s: Breguet history and an unusual Cartier
The Breguet anniversary sale
The 70-lot monographic sale was organized around Breguet’s 250th anniversary, with Montres Breguet SA and Emmanuel Breguet, a descendant of the founder and the brand’s heritage lead, involved in its curation. Pilla reports a total of CHF 12,202,960.
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The standout was Lot 9, Breguet No. 1890, at a reported CHF 1,880,000. The report identifies it as a four-minute tourbillon, delivered to Frédéric Frackman on 16 May 1809 and later sold to Count Alexis Razoumoffsky for 3,240 francs. Pilla says it inspired the Breguet Classique 7225. A contrasting result was Lot 60, Breguet No. 921, reported at CHF 48,260.
Important Watches: Gleitze’s Oyster and a Tank Normale
Lot 134, Mercedes Gleitze’s Rolex Oyster—also known as the “Companion Oyster”—was reported at CHF 1,392,000. Pilla describes it as a pre-production prototype of Rolex’s first waterproof wristwatch. The report also singles out Lot 131: a 1930s platinum Cartier Tank Normale with a mesh bracelet, reported at CHF 88,900, for its rare configuration.
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Christie’s: platinum watches with distinct appeal
Time+Tide reports a CHF 21,641,435 total for Christie’s Rare Watches. Its highest result in Pilla’s account was a double-sealed platinum Patek Philippe ref. 3970 special edition at CHF 1,397,000.
Another notable lot was Lot 103, an Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar ref. 25687PT in platinum, set with diamonds and rubies. Pilla reports CHF 673,100 and says the watch was designed by Emmanuel Guiet. At a much lower reported result, Vacheron Constantin ref. 43050, Lot 7, sold for CHF 57,150.
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Phillips: the headline sale and its standout lots
Pilla reports Phillips’ Decade One (2015–2025) sale at CHF 66.8 million and describes it as the highest total for a watch auction at the time of publication. Its defining result was Lot 23, a restored 1943 stainless-steel Patek Philippe ref. 1518, reported at CHF 14,190,000. Time+Tide calls it the most expensive Patek Philippe wristwatch sold at auction; that record claim belongs to the report’s November 2025 account.
Other results illustrate the range of the sale:
- F.P. Journe Chronomètre à Résonance “Souscription,” Lot 182: CHF 3,327,000. Pilla says it was the second of 20 produced and the only one rejected by its original recipient.
- J. Player & Sons “Hyper Complication,” Lot 39: CHF 2,238,000. The report calls this a world record for an antique British pocket watch and says Joseph Player made only two watches of this degree of complication.
- F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain “Régence Circulaire,” Lot 97: CHF 1,693,500.
- Ferdinand Berthoud Naissance d’Une Montre 3 “Unique Piece,” Lot 6: CHF 1,270,000. The report connects the watch to the Time Æon project, which preserves traditional watchmaking techniques, and says proceeds would support charity.
- Christian Klings Tourbillon 7, Lot 94: CHF 889,000. Pilla describes it as unique and says it became the most expensive watch sold by the watchmaker.
Antiquorum: quieter highlights and a chance to compare
Among Antiquorum’s reported results, the Rolex Day-Date Oysterquartz ref. 19048, Lot 601, reached CHF 100,000. A gold Rolex GMT-Master ref. 1675-8 with a “Quraysh Hawk,” Lot 674, was reported at CHF 506,250. The stainless-steel Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi,” Lot 691, reached CHF 187,500; Pilla specifically praises its dial condition.
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These are examples of what the report frames as hidden gems, not an assertion that the lots were undervalued or good investments. Pilla also sees Antiquorum’s broad selection as useful material for enthusiasts and scholars to see, understand and compare in person.
Independent reader supportYour contribution helps us test, update, and keep practical guides available for everyone.How to use an auction report as a collector
A reported hammer or sale result is one data point, not a valuation. A watch’s reference, condition, provenance, configuration and sale context matter, and the figures above should not be treated as evidence of future appreciation. Pilla advises readers to consult auction-house lot descriptions for fuller details, noting: “It’s the closest thing to being there in person and a really amazing learning opportunity.”
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For a decision involving a specific watch, use the catalogue to inspect its description and stated condition, then compare genuinely similar examples rather than treating a famous headline result as a direct equivalent. Nothing in Pilla’s overview establishes authenticity, fair value or investment performance for an individual lot.
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